MODULE 11

CHIMIA PRODUSELOR PENTRU UNGHII

Podcast with a biochemist and cosmetology specialist: ingredients, materials, lamp, and polymerization

Nail products are not just colored gels that we apply and place in a lamp. Behind every formula, there are ingredients, manufacturing processes, tests, documents, labeling rules, and a specific polymerization system.

In this podcast, together with the biochemist I work with, we have an open and very clear discussion about the chemistry of these products: what they contain, how they work, how to choose them, and how to verify that they come from a responsible source.

I ask all the questions I have had as a technician, trainer, and brand founder, and the scientific explanations are translated into language that you can understand and apply in the salon.

PRE-LANSARE: Cursurile vor fi disponibile în contul tău începând cu 1 noiembrie 2026.

Chimia produselor pentru unghii

Maybe you can relate to this if…

  • You choose products based only on consistency, color, or price.
  • You believe that a lamp with more watts automatically cures any product.
  • You don't know what ingredients the gels you work with contain.
  • You don't understand what HEMA is and why it appears so often on labels.
  • You think "HEMA-free" means the product can no longer cause any reaction.
  • You've heard about TPO, but you don't know what it is or why it was removed from formulas sold in the European Union.
  • You don't know which photoinitiators are used in new formulas.
  • You don't check if the product and the lamp are compatible.
  • You believe that if the gel is hard on the surface, it means it is fully cured.
  • You don't know what information must appear on the packaging.
  • You buy products without checking the supplier and their origin.
  • You don't know what documents you should be able to request from the distributor or supplier.
  • You have products that don't last, and you don't know if the problem stems from the formula, the lamp, the application, or the material choice.
  • You want to understand why some products cost more and what you are actually paying for with that price.

What you will learn

  • What a nail product is composed of.
  • The role of monomers, oligomers, pigments, photoinitiators, and other components.
  • How the formula influences the consistency, flexibility, and durability of the product.
  • What HEMA is and under what conditions it can become problematic.
  • What a "HEMA-free" product really means.
  • What TPO was, what role it played in polymerization, and why formulas were modified.
  • What alternative photoinitiators can be used in current products.
  • Why not all products polymerize in the same way.
  • How to verify the compatibility between a product and a lamp.
  • Why the stated wattage is not sufficient for evaluating a lamp.
  • What can happen when material is not fully polymerized.
  • How thickness, pigment, and exposure time can influence the polymerization process.
  • How to read a product label.
  • What you must check before introducing a product into the salon.
  • What documents a responsible supplier must be able to provide.
  • Why testing, traceability, and batch control are important.
  • How to differentiate marketing from real technical information.

Ingredients explained for technicians

In this podcast, we discuss the main categories of ingredients and the role of each in a formula:

  • Monomers and oligomers.
  • Photoinitiators.
  • Pigments and decorative particles.
  • Stabilizers and additives.
  • Ingredients that influence adhesion.
  • Ingredients that provide flexibility or rigidity.
  • Components that modify viscosity and self-leveling.

You will understand why two gels that look similar in the container can behave completely differently on the nail and why we cannot compare products based solely on consistency.

HEMA, HEMA-free formulas and the risk of sensitization

We will clearly discuss:

  • What HEMA is and the role it can play in a formula.
  • Why HEMA should not be simplistically presented as "good" or "bad".
  • In what situations the risk of sensitization increases.
  • Why the product must not touch the skin.
  • Why incomplete polymerization can increase exposure to unreacted ingredients.
  • What the "HEMA-free" claim actually means.
  • Why other ingredients in the acrylate family can also cause sensitization.
  • Why a HEMA-free product does not replace proper application and safe work practices.

We do not choose a product just because it says "HEMA-free". We analyze the formula, origin, method of use, and compatibility with the working system.

TPO, photoinitiators and new formulas

In this module, we explain:

  • What a photoinitiator is and why it is necessary.
  • What role TPO played in light-curing products.
  • Why we no longer find TPO in compliant products sold in the European Union.
  • What alternatives can be used in current formulas.
  • How new photoinitiators can influence curing time and method.
  • Why changing the formula may require verifying compatibility with the lamp.
  • Why we do not automatically assume that every old lamp needs to be replaced.
  • How we verify the instructions provided by the manufacturer for each system.

The goal is not for you to buy a new lamp just because an ingredient has changed, but to understand if the lamp you have emits in the right spectrum and if the product is cured according to the manufacturer's instructions.

The lamp and proper polymerization

You will understand:

  • Why wattage alone does not tell you how efficient a lamp is.
  • What wavelength means and why it matters.
  • How the hand must be positioned inside the lamp.
  • Why thumbs may remain insufficiently cured.
  • How a thick layer influences curing.
  • Why highly pigmented products may have different requirements.
  • What happens when the material seems cured only on the surface.
  • How to follow the indicated times for each product.
  • Why it is safer to work with a verified product-lamp system.
  • When the lamp needs to be checked or replaced.

Product packaging and labeling in compliance

You learn how to check if the product reaches you:

  • In intact and properly sealed packaging.
  • With a legible label.
  • With the list of ingredients.
  • With the batch number.
  • With the recommended term or period of use.
  • With relevant instructions and warnings.
  • With the details of the responsible person or economic operator.
  • With the necessary information for identification and traceability.

We also discuss the signs that should raise questions: products without a batch number, incomplete labels, open packaging, contradictory information, or suppliers who cannot provide details about the origin.

Documents and product traceability in the salon

You will learn what to check and which documents are important to be able to request or present, depending on the requirements applicable to your activity:

  • Invoice or proof of purchase from an identifiable supplier.
  • Distributor details and product origin.
  • Complete label and batch number.
  • Manufacturer's instructions and warnings.
  • Relevant technical or safety documents, when required.
  • Compliance documents made available for equipment.
  • Records of products used in the salon.

Exact requirements may vary depending on the product, equipment, activity, and requests from authorities. The module teaches you what to check and who to ask for documents, so that you do not work with products without origin and traceability.

How to choose a responsible brand

It is not just the country where the product is manufactured that matters. What matters is:

  • The factory and the conditions under which it is made.
  • The quality and purity of the raw materials.
  • The way the formula is constructed.
  • The tests performed before commercialization.
  • Batch control.
  • Traceability of ingredients.
  • Compatibility between products.
  • The accuracy of the information on the packaging.
  • The way the brand tracks and analyzes feedback.
  • The brand's ability to provide clear documents and instructions.

A responsible brand does not just choose a gel that looks nice. It tests it, verifies it, analyzes each formula, and monitors how the product performs in real-world use.

Expensive products versus cheap products

In the podcast, we also discuss price candidly:

  • Why purer raw materials can cost more.
  • Why testing and documentation increase the cost of a product.
  • Why secure packaging and quality control matter.
  • Why developing and verifying a formula requires investment.
  • Why a very cheap product can raise questions regarding origin, testing, or batch consistency.
  • Why a high price alone is not a guarantee of quality.

We don't automatically choose the most expensive product, nor do we automatically reject an affordable one. We learn to analyze what lies behind the price.

Why a product lasts or does not last

You will understand that durability does not depend on a single thing. We analyze:

  • Product compatibility with the nail plate.
  • Correct preparation.
  • Choosing the system.
  • Thickness and architecture of the work.
  • Compatibility between combined products.
  • Polymerization.
  • The condition and performance of the lamp.
  • The usage method recommended by the manufacturer.
  • Quality and stability of the formula.
  • The client's particularities and habits.

Thus, you will no longer change products at random every time a problem arises, but you will be able to analyze the entire system.

More knowledge. Safer choices. More accurate results.

After completing this module, you will have clear benchmarks for:

  • Understanding what the products you use contain.
  • Correctly reading a label.
  • Verifying the origin and traceability of products.
  • Asking the supplier the right questions.
  • Understanding HEMA and HEMA-free mentions.
  • Understanding changes related to TPO and photoinitiators.
  • Checking the relationship between the product and the lamp.
  • Recognizing the risks of incomplete polymerization.
  • Analyzing a retention issue without immediately changing all products.
  • Building a safer salon for yourself and your clients.

It is for you if…

  • You want to understand what you are applying to your client's nails.
  • You choose products mostly based on recommendations and want to be able to make informed decisions.
  • You don't understand the difference between HEMA, HEMA-free, TPO, and other photoinitiators.
  • You don't know if your lamp is suitable for the products you use.
  • You want to vet suppliers and packaging more accurately.
  • You have adhesion issues and want to identify the root cause.
  • You want to work with traceable products and be prepared for an inspection.
  • You are a trainer and want to responsibly explain this information to your students.
  • You want to understand what the development and testing of a professional product entail.

It is not for you if…

  • You choose products only based on color or consistency and do not want to check anything else.
  • You use products without a label and of unknown origin.
  • You believe that any lamp cures any product.
  • You believe that a "HEMA-free" product eliminates all risks.
  • You do not want to follow the instructions for use and curing times.
  • You are only looking for a list of "good" and "bad" ingredients, without understanding the formula as a whole.
  • You are already deeply knowledgeable about the chemistry of photopolymerizable materials and the legislation applicable to professional cosmetic products.

It is for you if…

  • You want to understand what you are applying to your client's nails.
  • You choose products mostly based on recommendations and want to be able to make informed decisions.
  • You don't understand the difference between HEMA, HEMA-free, TPO, and other photoinitiators.
  • You don't know if your lamp is suitable for the products you use.
  • You want to vet suppliers and packaging more accurately.
  • You have adhesion issues and want to identify the root cause.
  • You want to work with traceable products and be prepared for an inspection.
  • You are a trainer and want to responsibly explain this information to your students.
  • You want to understand what the development and testing of a professional product entail.

It is not for you if…

  • You choose products only based on color or consistency and do not want to check anything else.
  • You use products without a label and of unknown origin.
  • You believe that any lamp cures any product.
  • You believe that a "HEMA-free" product eliminates all risks.
  • You do not want to follow the instructions for use and curing times.
  • You are only looking for a list of "good" and "bad" ingredients, without understanding the formula as a whole.
  • You are already deeply knowledgeable about the chemistry of photopolymerizable materials and the legislation applicable to professional cosmetic products.

What you get in this module

  • In-depth podcast with a biochemist engineer and cosmetology specialist.
  • Clear explanations of ingredients in nail products.
  • Information on HEMA, HEMA-free formulas, TPO, and current photoinitiators.
  • Explanations regarding lamps, wavelengths, and polymerization.
  • Benchmarks for checking packaging, labels, and suppliers.
  • Information on documents, origin, and traceability.
  • Explanations regarding product testing, quality, and durability.
  • Module workbook in PDF format.
  • Digital certificate of participation, available in your account after completion.

Choose how you want to learn

PRE-LANSARE: Cursurile vor fi disponibile în contul tău începând cu 1 noiembrie 2026.

DIGITAL VERSION

Online course + PDF workbook + digital certificate

Video lessons and PDF materials for reading, downloading, and taking notes.

The digital certificate of participation can be downloaded from your account upon completion.

450,00 lei600,00 leiEconomisește 150,00 lei · −25%

PREMIUM VERSION

Online course + physical materials + physical diploma

Printed materials and a personalized physical diploma, signed by Ioana Diana.

They are shipped together in a package prepared in the ONE style.

525,00 lei700,00 leiEconomisește 175,00 lei · −25%

A module or the entire course?

You can purchase this module individually, combine it with two, three, or more modules, or you can choose the entire Basic 1 program.

The complete package includes all 25 modules and is priced more favorably than individual purchases.

Upon completing the 25 modules, the student receives the special, personalized Basic 1 diploma, crafted in a premium plexiglass format and shipped by ONE Nail Academy.

PRE-LAUNCH OFFER

25% DISCOUNT FOR ONE MONTH

Courses can be purchased before they are published. The pre-order offer is available for one month, and access is activated starting November 1, 2026.

  • Reserve your access.
  • Benefit from a 25% discount.
  • Choose one module, several modules, or the complete package.

IOANA DIANA · ONE NAIL ACADEMY

Education rooted in experience

I am Ioana Diana, nail trainer and founder of ONE Nail Academy and the ONE brand.

I created this module so that chemistry terms become practical decisions at your workspace.

I don't want you to just memorize my hand movements. I want you to understand what you are doing, why you are doing it, and what to check when the result is not what you expected.

START MODULE 11